Here is a short version of these rules to get the basics.

If you have the Drive I skill, you know how to drive, plain and simple. You can get up to 100 MPH without any problems, and all basic knowledge and functions are at your disposal... you can drive down the street, park, throw it in reverse, and turn on the wipers (if you even have any).

Sometimes, though, you want to try something a little more dangerous that requires you to call on your driving skills. This will require you to make a Drive test. All Drive tests are Agility/Level/Luck rolls, and can be modified by the difficulty of the maneuver, performance of the car, and other factors (very poor visibility, slick roads, etc.)

If you try to push your car beyond the speed you've been trained to go (e.g. going 150 MPH with Drive I), or if you try to drive without the Drive I skill, you must make a Drive test every round, or else you lose control of your car and crash (see Crashing).

The car's total running performance (TRP) is the general running capabilities of your car. Think of it as how "healthy" your car is. 10%... your car is on its last leg. 85%? Not like it's off the lot, but it's doing pretty well.

Your car's maximum speed is also limited by the TRP. Your car's maximum speed is the %TRP times the listed maximum speed (e.g. For a car that is at 47% of the TRP and has a listed 200 MPH speed, it can go 94 MPH maximum).

You're only as good of a driver as your car allows you to be. Want to pull off a jackknife maneuver in that junker of yours? You're free to try, but it's not as easy as doing it in a brand new model. Apply the listed penalty to every Drive test you make.

Percent of Total Running Performance	Penalty to Drive Tests
0	-----
1-9	-9
10-19	-8
20-29	-7
30-39	-6
40-49	-5
50-59	-4
60-69	-3
70-79	-2
80-89	-1
90-99	0
100	+1

In addition to penalties to drive tests, particular afflictions come with the car, quirks that need to be fixed. When you first purchase the car, the GM will roll randomly for Minor Flaws and Major Flaws. Minor flaws are things that are annoying and might occasionally cause problems. Major flaws require serious repair and could cause your car to stop working altogether. The possible flaws are listed below and could be added to.

For every category you are below 100% TRP (90-99, 80-89, etc), there is a 50% chance that your car has a flaw. For 50-99%, these are Minor Flaws. For 1-49%, these are Major Flaws. It is possible your car will have no flaws... it is also possible your car will have all the flaws it can handle.

For example, Jonny just bought a "new" car from Smitty in The Den. He picked out one that was on its last leg... 5% TRP. The GM will roll randomly 5 times for Minor Flaws and 5 times for Major Flaws. It comes up 3 Minor Flaws and 2 Major Flaws. The GM rolls randomly to see which flaws are in the car. Jonny finds that the car's windshield wipers don't work, the windows don't roll down, and that he has to jiggle the doors to open them, making quick in-and-out difficult. Jonny also finds that the car has no shocks, so going over the Wasteland ground is rough on his behind, and that the car pulls to the right. This, combined with a total of -10 to all driving rolls, lets Jonny know that he has a lot of work ahead of him.

There are two ways to get rid of flaws. In general repair, some flaws are eased up and go away. For every 10% TRP repair you do, you can choose one existing flaw (Minor or Major) to eliminate from the car.

You can also work on flaws specifically. It takes 15 paragraphs of RP to get rid of a Minor Flaw and 30 paragraphs of RP to get rid of a Major Flaw of your choice. This RP doesn't count towards fixing TRP. If a GM doesn't monitor this repair, logs must be sent to NewRenoRPG@gmail.com.

When your car is damaged, the same thing applies. For every 10% TRP of damage dealt to your car, there is a 50% chance your car will gain a flaw. If this damage puts you below 50% TRP, this will be a Major Flaw... otherwise, it will be a Minor Flaw.

You can, of course, get a garage to repair the flaws for you. This will cost $250 for a Minor Flaw and $500 for a Major Flaw, multiplied by the % cost of Build/Repair for that garage times 100 (so, $500 for a Major Flaw at The Den, or $1000 at the Wright Garage).

Minor Flaws

Number	Flaw Name	Effect
1	Windshield Wipers Don't Work	-1 to Drive Tests in inclement weather
2	Loud Muffler	Very, very loud and can be heard everywhere in the immediate vicinity
3	No Air Conditioning	Bad for hot days... -1 to all Drive Rolls on very hot days (Reroll for bikes)
4	Windows Don't Roll Down	GM Discretion
5	Door Jams	Hard to get in and out of the vehicle quickly
6	Rusted Over	Any paint jobs come out looking shoddy and poor... of course, they're over rust!
7	Roughed-up Interior	The interior is ripped up, and the springs poke everyone in the ass. There's even a faint but un-ignorable smell of... rotting meat? Eggs? Fish? Grandmother?

Major Flaws

Number	Flaw Name	Effect
1	Pulls to the Right	-1 to Driving Tests for any left-hand turns
2	Pulls to the Left	-1 to Driving Tests for any right-hand turns
3	Rusted Brakes	-5 MPH to braking
4	No Pick-Up-And-Go	-5 MPH to acceleration
5	Trouble Starting	Takes a few rounds to start, GM discretion on how long
6	Noxious Fumes	Fumes emit from the engine. -1 cumulative Drive Test penalty every 10 rounds
7	No Shocks	-1 to Drive Test when off-roading
8	No Vroom	-5 to the speed after all other calculations
9	Shimmy	5% chance each round that the driver must make a Drive Test or roll your vehicle.
10	Beater	5% chance each round that the car might simply give up the ghost and stop running until 1% TRP is fixed
11	Overheats	Cumulative 1% chance every minute of the engine overheating and taking 5% TRP damage. When this happens, the car decelerates at its braking speed until it stops, taking another 1% TRP damage every round until the car is shut off. The vehicle must rest 1 minute before it can be turned on again, and for every minute it is off, the cumulative chance of critically overheating again is reduced by 5%)
12	No Torque	When carrying a very heavy load, or a lot of people, your car is even more sluggish (-10 MPH). GM Discretion on the amount of a very heavy load.

Want to speed up? You can automatically speed up in a round, without extra effort. This is given by the acceleration chart under Vehicle Stats. You can also spend a full-round action to accelerate at double your vehicle's acceleration, or a single action to accelerate at 1.5x your vehicle's acceleration (rounded down). If you try to use a full-round action to accelerate, you must make a Drive test or spin out (treat this as rolling your car... see Crashing)

Stopping is sometimes harder than starting. You can decelerate safely based on the type of vehicle you have, without extra effort (without having to take an action):

Bikes	50 MPH/round
Cars	35 MPH/round
Vans/Trucks	20 MPH/round

You can decelerate at double this rate by spending a single action, or at triple this rate with a full-round action.

When rounding a corner, you need to usually take it at certain speeds before flipping.

Angle of Turn	Max Speed
90	45 MPH
45	60 MPH

This is based on a street-corner scale... for a larger scale (e.g., going around a running track), the maximum speed is higher (GM Discretion). With the Power Slide or Rounding Corners skills, you can make a Drive test to go faster than this around the corner.

When you're driving a car, you think of driving it on nice, even, new pavement... but who the hell finds that in New Reno? You're usually driving on cracked, broken pavement... or, if you're unlucky, out in the Wasteland. Well, your driving is going to suffer for it. You take a penalty to all Driving tests made on off-road terrain, as per the following table:

Mild (flat sand; bumpy dirt; moderately broken road with many potholes)	-2
Medium (cracked dirt; loose, duney sand; very broken road that is one big pothole)	-4
Heavy (open rock-face; thick brush w/ uneven ground)	-8

The same applies when it's pouring down rain, when you're in the middle of a tornado, or in that rare occurrence when it's snowing in New Reno.

Mild (light rain; high winds)	-1
Medium (moderate rain; several-inch snow)	-3
Heavy (monsoon; heavy sandstorm; blizzard; freezing rain)	-5

You can make attacks while driving (like in the classic car-chase scene where the driver leans out the window and fires off a few shots to take out the other car's tires). There is no restriction on melee or ranged... feel free to bash down your neighbor's mailbox through your window (or your neighbor, for that matter) as you drive by.

You take a -4 to your attack and driving rolls for the turn that you make these attacks (this includes both the attacking and defending phases). This can be negated by the Bullets & Brakes skill. This applies to turret-mounted weapons as well. Anyone trying to fire from the car while not driving takes a -2 to their rolls, unless they or the driver have the Bullets & Brakes skill.

When a car is damaged, this is partially represented by superficial damage (the side window being blown out) and partially by performance damage (the engine getting nicked and one piston being off-kilter).

Each car has a base HP, like a character. On top of that, a driver may purchase extra armor for the car, including ram armor. When a car is reduced to 0 HP, it does not run for the rest of the quest/duel. It is totaled, but it may be salvaged and repaired later.

For every 40 base damage dealt to the car, 1% is deducted from the car's TRP. So, if a 2000 HP car is dealt 2000 damage, it is totaled for the rest of the quest, but it is only dealt 50% TRP damage, so a fully-running car might be salvageable afterwards. However, it is possible for a car to still have HP left but have no % TRP, and that means it too is totaled.

Armor absorbs damage first on a vehicle, and damage to armor does not reduce the % TRP as normal.

After the bombs fell, people found a problem with using vehicles again: tires. There was no way to get the rubber, no factories, and no one to work them. Most tires in existence today are a mutated process of tightly-wound rags or rope around a rim that has been soaked in pitch, which hardens to a hard-plastic consistency. It's far from Daytona 500 standards (not like anyone remembers that anyway), but it gets your car around. The few actual rubber tires that people have are usually from intact supply depots and other caches.

These tires obviously aren't very stable. Each tire has 80 HP. The regular rubber tires have 40 HP each, making those a prime target to take out. For each tire gone, the driver takes a cumulative -3 to his drive rolls (this is -6 per tire if there are only 2 tires, -2 per tire if there are 6 tires, and -1 per tire if there are more tires than that). If a car’s tire is blown out when it is moving, the driver must make a drive roll (with the penalty) or else crash. It is possible for a car to move on only rims, but highly unlikely. If a driver has more than half of his tires blown out, he must make a drive test every round to prevent himself from crashing. This damage doesn't count towards damage to the car overall. Targetted shots at the wheels take a -4 to attack. Damage to tires is reduced by 50%, and each attack at a tire takes 1 action.

People also are fond of shooting out windows too, to get better access at shooting at the driver, or for any reason. Each pane of glass has 40 HP. This damage doesn't count towards damage to the car overall. Targetted shots at the windows take a -2 to hit. It is GM discretion of what affect this has.

It is human nature to want to destroy things, and what better way to do that than with a huge, metal object moving at high speeds?

There are a number of different categories of ramming: ramming people, ramming objects, ramming walls, ramming other cars, and sideswiping.

Ramming People

When trying to ram a person, first you must make a Drive test. This is a full-round action. This can also be dodged, where applicable. Attacker wins ties. If the Drive roll fails or if the defender dodges, you simply miss. If the person is hit, he is dealt an amount of damage based on the type of vehicle it is.

Bikes	2x Speed
Cars	3x Speed
Trucks/Vans	4x Speed

Ramming Objects

First you must make a full-round Drive Test with a +10 to your roll to hit the object. You deal damage to the object based on the type of vehicle it is.

Bikes	4x Speed
Cars	6x Speed
Trucks/Vans	8x Speed

You also deal damage to your own car... no vehicle is invincible! You vehicle takes 3x the current speed in damage.

And, it stands to reason that when your car hits something heavier than a person, you get jostled around a lot in your car, hitting your head off the steering wheel or lashing it around. Damage to the driver is based on the following table. The number in parentheses is the damage without a seatbelt or helmet.

Bikes	3x Speed (4x)
Cars	2x Speed (3x)
Trucks/Vans	1x Speed (2x)

Ramming Walls

Ramming a wall is a little different than running over a mailbox or taking out a shopping cart... some objects are just too big to treat as "running over". A wall is considered any object that is 10' or wider, or anything else the GM designates as heavy/solid enough to be a wall (such as Frank Horrigan).

You can hit a wall automatically if you wish to. You deal damage to the wall based on the following table.

Bikes	4x Speed
Cars	6x Speed
Trucks/Vans	8x Speed

Just like hitting an object, you deal damage to your own vehicle. Your vehicle takes 6x the current speed in damage.

Since the object doesn't crumple and blast aside as you ram into it, a lot of the force of impact goes into the vehicle... and subsequently hits into the driver. Damage to the driver is based on the following table.

Bikes	4x Speed (5x)
Cars	3x Speed (4x)
Trucks/Vans	2x Speed (3x)

Ramming Another Car

Ramming other cars is an ageless tactic in high-speed chases. There are three ways you can ram another car, rear-ending, hitting from the side, and head-on collisions.

If you're trying to ram another car, you must first make a Drive Test. If the other driver is attempting to hit you as well, you automatically ram each other. If the other driver is not trying to avoid you, make the Drive Test as normal. If the other driver is actively trying to avoid you, he/she makes an opposed Drive Test. The attacking vehicle wins ties. If you hit the other car, damage is dealt according to the following formula:

Rear-end	Your MPH - Their MPH
From the side (more than 45 degrees away from directly from behind or directly in front)	Your MPH.
Head-on	Your MPH + Their MPH

Treat this as ramming a non-wall object where your speed is the new calculated speed. After ramming, both drivers must make Drive Tests to avoid further wiping out. If the Drive test is failed, treat this as rolling your car (see Crashing).

For example:

Car A is driving head-long at Car B. Car A is traveling at 200 MPH, and Car B is traveling at 100 MPH. They crash, head-long into each other, in a brilliant collision.

The new calculated speed is 300 MPH. Car A deals Car B 1800 damage, because 300 MPH x 6 (for a car) = 1800 damage. He also deals himself 900 damage (300 MPH x 3 = 900). Car B is the same situation. So, total, each car is dealt 2700 damage. That means that each car's TRP is reduced by 67%, which could wreck most cars.

Sideswiping

Sideswiping is slamming your car sideways into another vehicle that is pacing you, such as in a street race. Treat this as per the ramming rules, but all damage dealt is cut in half.

Think you're too good to crash your car? How about when it's a rainy, icy night, the streetlamps are flickering, you're at max speed in your Mustang, there's a HumV on your tail with a gauss rifle mounted to its top... and your only chance is to turn that corner up ahead on the next street and hope the other guy wipes out?

Crashing follows the same rules as ramming. There are two ways you can crash... into a wall, or rolling your car.

When crashing into a wall, treat this as ramming into a wall for purposes of damage.

When rolling your car, treat this as ramming a non-wall object for the purposes of damage. Also, roll a Luck (d20 + only luck modifier) roll. If you get 15+, your car rolls back onto its wheels... if not, your car is on its side or on its top.